Updates & Errata

 

Mistaks and erors do creep in, and they're listed here if they are at all likely to confuse the reader. Some aren't errors but are clarifications, updates, extra information or just different points of view.

Many thanks to all who have written in!

 

 
Chapter 3: how 4WD works
Page 28

 In the caption under the photo on page 28 you point out that the front passenger side wheel is stationary, while the front driver side wheel is rotating fast. You then explain why this is occurring. In this explanation you state that, “the reason the driver’s wheel is easier to turn is because it has less of the car’s weight on it than the passenger side, and the more weight on a tyre, the greater the traction.”

I suggest that this could be made clearer if your explanation was ‘the reason the driver’s side front wheel is easier to turn is because it has less of the car’s weight on it than the passenger side front wheel, and the more weight on a tyre, the greater the traction.”

My reasoning behind this suggestion is that as the driver’s side is clearly down hill, gravitational force will result in more weight being on the driver’s side than the passenger ’s side. As you know, this doesn’t mean that more weight will be on the downside wheel (in this case the front driver ’s side front wheel) than the upside wheel (in this case the passenger’s side front wheel) as there are other factors to be taken into account. In your explanation, you have referred to the passenger side, not the passenger’s side front wheel.

The car in the photo is indeed at slight side angle and therefore the lower wheel, in this case the driver’s side, would normally have more weight on it than the higher wheel. However, the car is balanced such that the lower wheel has little weight on it, hence the wheelspin. Yes, I could have said “passenger’s side front wheel” to make it clearer.

 
Chapter 4: gearing and transmissions
Page 59

On page 59, Automatics, 3rd dot point you state that automatics “can’t be towed for long, because the turbine is not designed to effectively “drive” the pump. While this is the case for automatics without a transfer case, if you have a 4WD Automatic (has low range) and put the transfer case in Neutral, and the transmission in Park, you can tow it for long distances. See the 4WD Action magazine No 164 page 83.

That depends on the design of the automatic. Some of them, such as the Jeep Grand Cherokee 2011 are designed for this operation and have a neutral. But it is a good point, worth clarifying.

 
Chapter 6: weights
Page 77 The printing, which should be below the diagram, is over the diagram. Indeed it is. The text says “Vehicle weights (refer to table on page 75 for vehicle weights and table on page 79 for towing weights).

Misprint.  I'll have the printer shot tomorrow morning without breakfast.

 
Chapter 10: Vehicle Examples
Page 141 Suzuki Grand Vitara – in line 7 it says that the “the 4WD selector on the right …….” this should have been “on the left …”.

Correct.

 
Chapter 22: Hills
Page 275 In explaining how to stop an automatic on a downhill, in the 2nd point you say “apply the park brake and shift the transmission into P. Gently release the footbrake.” Shouldn’t this be something like “apply the parkbrake, gently release the footbrake and let the vehicle settle on the parkbrake. Shift the transmission into P.” You have explained why you need to let the vehicle settle on the parkbrake in the next column.

Correct, good point.

 

On the same page under Parking on a Hill, 3rd line it says, “creep backwards”. I suggest that this be changed to “creep downhill”. This change is suitable whether the vehicle was facing down or up the hill. Correct, good point. In the 1st column on page 317, 13th and 12th line from the bottom, it says “…..rough for clutch-up speeds can be negotiated in a manual by holding the vehicle lightly on the brake ….” It took me a long time to work out the by “clutch-up speeds” speeds, you meant driving as normally while going as slowly as possible in the lowest gear possible with the clutch up (disengaged).

If my interpretation is correct, I suggest that in any future editions that “clutch-up speeds” be altered to something like “driving as slowly as possible in the lowest gear possible”. Even if you decide to leave is as it is, there needs to be a comma after speeds, and this terrain inserted after the comma and before “can be negotiated……..”

Your interpretation is correct.

   
Chapter 31: Recovery Loads
Page 352  The example of the landcruiser stuck on a 16 degree slope calculations.

I looked at doing this differently as follows;-:

Gravity force of the vehicle calculated as folows:-
 Force = Sin of 16 degrees = 0.2756 (as per natural sine tables).
Thus the force to overcome = 3,180 x 0.2756 = 876.4kgs plus the
Rolling resistance at 6% of 3,180= 190.8kg
Total of above 1066.6kgs.

The book answer 899kg.

You are correct, the answer should be 1066.6kg.  I don't know how I came up with the lower figure.

I have used the approach of using the Sine tables to obtain the 0.2756 rather than than radians. I am not sure a lot of 4wdrivers would understand the radian method of calculating the force due to the angle of the slope, including myself.

A simpler method is described in the book, slope in degrees x (weight / 60).  Radians are not required.


The coefficent figures on page 352 also, differ from those published by Ramsey Winches some years ago. Their rolling resistance figures are as follows
Smooth hardtop 1/25, 4%
Surface grass 1/7, 14%
Gravel 1/5, 20%
Sand 1/4, 25%.
Shallow mud 1/2, 50%
Deep mud to top of wheels =1x loaded weight of vehicle
Deep mud to top of mudguards= 2x loaded vehicle weight
Deep mud to top of cabin 3x loaded weight of vehicle

Thanks.  The figures quoted above are close to what are in the book which are an average of several sources and my own tests.  But "top of cabin" ???? 


 
Chapter 38: Repairing Tyres
Page 430 In Legal Repairs, page 430, you indicate, “It is not legal to repair any damage anywhere other than the crown”. Unless the legal requirements have changed since 2008, I believe that you can legally repair sidewalls providing you use a special patch, which has been designed for this purpose. I believe that these patches are available from Rema Tip-Top, 1B Chapel St Lynbrook, ph 9554 7700 – they are expensive, about $80 each. To the best of my knowledge there are two tyre repair places in Victoria which have been authorised to make these side-wall repairs – Greys Tyres, 434 Francis St, Brooklyn, ph 9315 2585, and Melton Tyre Repairs, 4 Collins Rd, Melton, ph 9747 0143. Members of City Offpeak have used these sidewall patches in an emergency situation, and successfully travelled thousands of kilometres before they started to break down.

I have checked this out.  The repair is actually more of a rebuild of the tyre where it is placed in a special jig and 'cooked' to more or less recreate the tyre, as opposed to a patch.  However  the basic premise of sidewall damage being legally repairable in some cases is correct, albeit with this specialised equipment.  So if you have a sidewall problem bring in to one of these guys to have a look at.  I can't recommend the work of either, but Grey's were significantly more helpful on the phone when I called to ask about the process, so I'd run with them.  Always be polite to callers as they may turn out to be bloggers!

   
Chapter 39: Vehicle accessories and modifications
Page 455

On page 455 you state, “there are two basic types of battery, deep cycle and high-current discharge (starter)”. You then explain the difference between these. I was wondering why you haven’t included marine batteries, which have characteristics similar to starter and deep cycle batteries, and are designed to operate under adverse conditions and are suitable for 4WD use.

Marine batteries fall into either of the two categories depending on their design. Agree that they may be suitable for offroaders.

   
   
   

 

 

General


Your book is very comprehensive and the best I seen.  Some of the images in photographs are hard to define ( publishing process problem. Also I find the redish text is hard to read in some lighing conditions.


I have just finished reading your 4WD Handbook, which I found to be excellent! Congratulations, I have no hesitation in recommending this book to those I have instructed, or those I go on trips with.


 

 

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Chapter 30 p:345

Regarding the use/selection of recovery point you state "All you can do is see what other people are doing and if that works, follow suit."


This statement could easily lead to trouble. As your book is primarily aimed at people with little 4wding experience and those wishing to improve their knowledge, they may easily be lead astray by other who think they know what they are doing. All too often I have come across people who have been told by a friend that what they are doing is ok as it has never caused them a problem.


A case in point was when I recently went to the assistance of 2 gentlemen trying to recover a soft roader stuck fast on it's belly in the middle of a beach access point. The driver of the recovering vehicle was placing his snatch strap over his tow ball, at which stage I decided a bit of friendly advise wouldn't go astray. The first thing I noticed when looking at the strap was the damage already done to the eye from previous recoveries. I explained the dangers of using a tow ball for recovery only to be told by the driver that what he had been shown to do. To his disgust I suggested he might wish to purchase a new strap due to the extent of damage already done to his and that his mate should get one if he was going to go off road. His next problem was that he could not remove the tow hitch as he used a locking pin and didn't have the key.


At this point I told him for safety sake would happily use my car and equipment. When I went to put my strap on the soft roader, I found the other driver had attached the strap to the tie down point of his vehicle at his friends advice. To my dismay the shackle they had used was your basic trailer variety just big enough for the strap to fit into. Again I gave the driver some friendly advise on the type of shackle to use and what was and was not a safe recovery point. As I expected he told me this is what his friend used for recoveries and as he was new to 4wding he thought he trust his more experienced friend.


After clearing some of the sand from around the front of the vehicle I found a proper recovery point to my relief and I was able to recover the vehicle with little difficulty. Unfortunately by this stage those stuck on the beach and those looking to get on the beach where less than impressed with all of us.


I know most experienced drivers have had similar situations where they have come across drivers, who have relied on advice from friends who think they know what they are doing, only to be poorly advised. A few more details and examples would be helpful to reduce any confusion around recovery points.


As a driver trainer within my 4wd club, I have found your book an invaluable source of information, especially for newer vehicles. It allows me to point to an up to date book that newer drivers can read in addition to the QLD 4wd association's training manuals the club has.
Posted by Michael (not verified) on 17 February 2012 - 9:19pm
Thanks Michael.  There was

Thanks Michael.  There was more text around that explaining that rated recovery points don't exists and the dangers of recovery in general.  I think I'll change that text to making notes about using chassis rails etc.  Unfortunately, as we know there's no ADR or standard to say "yes, that is indeed an approved & rated recovery point".

 

Posted by Robert on 18 February 2012 - 3:14pm
Recovery Points

I agree, the lack of a national standard to define "off road" recovery points as opposed to " on road" (tie down points) recovery points is a problem, especially for vehicles without a full length chassis rail.


Regardless, it would be great to see is some examples of factory fitted recovery points from some of the most common vehicles and then compare them with tie down points of other vehicles. I also know there has been a lot of R&D by some companies on after market recovery points. A few examples of these detailing the correct type of bolts that should be used when mounting them would be great.


I have also been told by installers of tow bars that they should not be used for recoveries as they are only designed to pull in a straight line. To me, they are still te best option for recoveries. What are thoughts?
Posted by Michael (not verified) on 19 February 2012 - 6:49am
Good points, good feedback. 

Good points, good feedback.  I will go further into this topic in the next version of the book.   ARB have started manufacturing recovery points:

http://www.arb.com.au/products/arb-recovery-equipment/recovery-points/

Towbars are fine to recover from, BUT only if the towball is not used.  Page 342 of the book has an example setup.

 

Posted by Robert on 19 February 2012 - 7:26am